PJ3 - Public Duck Call Jig (Parallel)

PJ3 - Public Duck Call Jig (Parallel)
Brand: WEBFoot Custom Calls
Product Code: PJ3
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Quantity Available: 3
Price: $110.00
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Working on getting more blank material in.  Of course, everything is slower than expected.  Will update the availability as soon as we have a better idea.

Want a longer sound board?  Increased deck height?  A blunt nose style parallel style board?  Well look no farther!  The PJ3 is a revision to the popular and original WEBFoot Public Jig - the PJ1.  The PJ3 features a longer tone board, raised deck height by .010", and a blunt nose (as opposed to the pointed tip of the PJ1).  Again, our public jigs are NOT "finished call" jigs... we aren't giving away a soundboard, we are giving you a repeatable starting place.  Where you take it from here is up to you - but we DO NOT intend you to stop with what the jig gives you.  Just like a saw blade...  It makes a cut - what you build with it?  Well thats up to you! :D

Need help choosing a jig?   READ THIS!

All of our jigs are made from tool steel and hardened to 61-64Rc or greater (prior to cutting the sound board) to resist typical steelcutting tools such as files and bandsaw blades.  These jigs CAN NOT be altered with normal tools.  Sand paper, grinding wheels, carbide or diamond tools, etc WILL damage the jig.

Cork Notch Height/depth: .165" (3/16" cork) / .350" deep.       Suggested wedges/cork:   316DCC, 316HDC, 177SW, or use 162SW for double reed applications.  Sand thickness for desired fit.
Suggested Reed: WCDR-1, WCDR-2, WCDR-3, or SDR1
Jig Bore Size: .625 - .627" (for 5/8 tenons)
Deck Height: Measured at the front of the cork notch ≈ 0.345"
Suggested Tone Channel Dia: 15/64" or 1/4"
Board Length: Back of cork to tip of jig:  ~1.800"
Tone Channel Depth starting point: .35"-.40" from the end of the sound board - remember to experiment with this (We suggest .010" increments)

This is an PARALLEL design jig For an Upslope design use PJ2 - if you are looking for the WEBFoot Original Public Jig - please see our PJ1.  Please read this description entirely before you contact us with questions.

"Upslope" means that the reed slopes upwards at the end - compared to the centerline of the keg.  "Parallel" means the reed is parallel to the centerline of the keg.  This jig is hardened and can not be altered with steel tools.  Warranty void if altered or abused - hardened steel is brittle and breaks more easily than softer steels - dropping your jig is not suggested.

D1 & D2 extra reeds (D1-R-15 or D2-R15) are NOT RECOMMENDED for use with the public jig as they are very narrow reeds, and the .014" reed is a little thick for use with a single reed AR style call.

A public jig is a production version jig and each one is like the other, it is not custom in any way other than when the jig was designed it was customized specifically for reproduction by Wade Carpenter.  It is NOT perfect, nor does it have the same surface finish on the tone board that comes on the Custom Jigs.  This is on purpose.  The sound board this jig creates "straight off the jig" is marginal as some would say.  Others have said its the best "public jig" out there, but it really is up to each individual as to what they think of the sound produced directly off the jig.  The public jig is not meant to create a finished product, it is to help get beyond the initial shaping stages of the sound board to get to a point at which one can start learning to make their own soundboard.  The public jig is not used to create any products sold here.  If you are interested in the sound the public jig creates directly from the jig, it is suggested to post up on the various call making forums for opinions from the many users of this jig.  We do not have any parts cut from this jig, nor sound files of a sound board from this jig since it is not intended for "final production" of sound boards.

The public offering version is a good starting point for you to design your own soundboards. This jig is a learning tool, and not a jig designed to give a finished product.  This jig will help you LEARN how to make calls, it will not make calls for you.  There will be a light scribe line of both sides of the jig.  This scribe line is a starting point for you to reference when locating the end of your tone channel.  It is not a "set in stone" dimension, only a guide to help you get started.  There are 2 tapped holes on the bottom of the jig.  The intended purpose of these tapped holes (1/4-20 thread) is to allow adjustment of the keg tenon in the jig for experimenting.  These take 1/4"-20 set screws (not included).  These holes allow you to thread a bolt or set screw through the bottom, and to gently push up on the insert in different spots, to adjust where your base line is - for example if you were wanting to make an upslope reed design from a parallel jig, you could thread in the bolt under the cork notch and push the back up just a little.  There are two set screws included with the jig, a Steel socket head cap screw and a nylon socket head cap screw (can sometimes reduce the marring to the keg from the set screw).  Remember, do not sand, grind, or use carbide tools on the jig unless you are purposefully trying to alter the shape.  Jigs are designed to withstand normal steel cutting tools such as files and saws.  Do not use a hammer on, drop, or abuse any hardened part or tool as it may fracture, ruining the jig and may cause injury.

Remember, do not sand, grind, or use carbide tools on the jig unless you are purposefully trying to alter the shape.  Our Jigs are designed to withstand normal steel cutting tools with a Rockwell hardness of 60Rc or less - less being better for the jig (typical Nicholson files are approximately 55Rc) but the jigs can NOT stand up to carbide, diamond, grinding or abbrasives (like sand paper).   Our jigs are through hardened A2 tool steel and are 61-64Rc hardness.  We suggest avoiding tools made of material that is harder than 60Rc.  Some import files have been found to be harder than the industry standard of 55-58Rc - use at your own risk.  Some HSS or Cobalt tools (such as RotoZip bits etc) can possibly be harder than 60Rc and may prematurely wear on your jig.  We suggest you test any tool you use on the bottom or corner of the jig to be sure its not removing jig material prior to use on the toneboard portion of your jig.

Do not use a hammer on any hardened part or tool as it may fracture and cause injury.

Interested in having your own "Public Jig"?  We offer manufacturing services as well as products.  If you have a design or idea you would like to discuss - feel free to email us.

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