Custom Duck Jig

PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE PAGE:  There are questions below that we require answers to in order to verify pricing and other specific details that pertain to making your jig.

****  BE SURE TO INCLUDE YOUR NAME AND INFO WITH THE PROTOTYPE SO WE KNOW WHO IT BELONGS TO!!!

Turn around time - if the jig blank you need is in stock:
Estimated turn-around time is 4-8 weeks - but usually faster.  We suggest you PLAN ON 8 WEEKS and be pleasantly surprised if its faster.  Please don't email and ask what our turn around time is, or how things are going, or how much longer we think it might be.  If we have questions or issues, we will contact you.   The last thing we do, is verify everything, if it comes out, we are done.  If it doesnt, we start over from scratch - so we wont know when it's done, til it's done... and at that point, it will be done so it will be ready to pack and ship.  We would rather spend our time working on jobs than typing emails. :D

Typical cost for a custom jig is $325, but the answers to questions 1 & 2 below can have an effect on both pricing and turn around.  It is fairly uncommon to end up having a need for a longer than normal blank or non-standard blank bore.

Shipping address for your prototype:  

****  BE SURE TO INCLUDE YOUR NAME, E-MAIL ADDRESS, AND INFO WITH THE PROTOTYPE OR ON THE BOX SO WE KNOW WHO IT BELONGS TO!!!  We get a lot of prototypes with no reference to the name that the emails are sent from - and end up having to play detective to figure out who's prototye it is.

WEBFoot Custom Calls
14982 County Road 6
Wiggins, CO 80654

Turn around time - if the jig blank you need is in stock:

Again, current estimated turn-around time is 4-8 weeks - but usually faster.  No, we wont have any better idea of the turn around time until the time we start your jig.  

Choose the appropriate option from the "Available Options" above when paying the deposit, in full, etc...  Please email the answers to the questions below BEFORE paying for anything.

If you need a duplicate jig of a previously made design, please see Duplicate Custom Duck Jig

There is a LOT of information below...  You need to read it!  There are questions below that we need the answers for... Some is for pricing, others are specific dimensions for the actual jig - please include those answers in your initial email to us for fastest service!   If you're not interested in reading all of this, or specifying anything, or have no clue what any of this stuff is about - we suggest you tell us, "just do your thing - Im prepared to live with what ever you send".   Then we will just make the jig based off of what we see, and what we would do if it were our very own call/jig.

Tenon accuracy (both in terms of diameter and being a cylinder rather than wavy or tapered), tone channel depth and length are all huge factors in achieving acceptable results from any jig.  If your kegs are not repeatable AND accurate - you will have variations in the result from the jig from part to part - similar to the old adage "garbage in - garbage out".  If there isnt an accurate and consistant tenon to locate from for mapping and locating, it becomes a guessing game and can be an expensive gamble that we will "guess exactly right".  Sometimes it best to just start over if you have a bad tenon or tone board error than it is to just bulldoze on through with "oughta be close enough".

***   A minimum of 50% deposit ($162.50) must be received prior to any work being started (mapping, drawing, cutting, etc...) Payment in full is also welcome.

You may supply your own .DXF file to have a jig made from, but it must be in AutoCAD2004 or OLDER format - 2D wire frame, and in a 1:1 scale - a DXF in Autocad R12 seems to be the least problematic when going from one program to another.  There will be a discount of $100.00 since we will not have to map your soundboard provided your drawing is useable as is (for an example file please email us).  

***ORIGINALITY NOTICE***

WE WILL NOT copy someone else's toneboard, design, reed shape, etc...  for anyone other than the originator of that toneboard.  DO NOT send someone else's tone board for us to copy for you.  If you do, and it is discovered, you will be charged for any work performed up to the point that the infringement is discovered and you WILL NOT receive the jig.  A refund for the remaining balance and the prototype will be returned less shipping charges.  If you have altered a molded insert to your own design, it must be noteably altered by visual inspection.  Minor alterations to the very tip, or a "light pass" with a file on the sound board does not constitute "altered".  We are VERY strict about this policy, and will err on the side of caution rather than accidentally make an unauthorized copy.  We cant guarantee that we will catch every attempt - but we try our best!

We also take comments and concerns voiced to us by other call makers very seriously.  We can not possibly know every toneboard out there from every maker - but when a call maker contacts us with a concern about another customer/potential customer of ours, we investigate until we are satisfied or we wont make the jig.  In this day and age - apparently many feel its acceptable to copy others design, dupliacate a public jig profile, or map multiple big name calls and make an amalgamation of those via various techniques and call it "their own design".  We feel this is not an ethical way to proceed with call making and we do our best to not enable this kind of behavior.  So we investigate.  Love us or hate us for it - thats what we do.  We reserve the right to "make public" any unethical actions that we discover.

Custom Jigs can have many variables that may affect price and turn around time if our standard jig blank is not useable for your jig.

The Standard "Custom Jig Price" is $325.00 (shipping included - insurance is additional if desired) provided it will fit in our standard preprepped .6245-.627" bore jig blank.  We require a 50% deposit to start work on your jig, the remainder due prior to shipping out. 

If the standard blank is not satisfactory for your needs, there will be additional cost(s) associated with a special blank.  We have the pre-prepped blanks in an attempt to keep pricing as low as possible.  Heat treating carries a batch fee ($250+) along with a charge per pound of weight and shipping to and from - the approximate cost for heat treating a single jig blank is nearly $250 on top of the added costs for preparing the single custom blank.  We use one of Colorado's leading heat treat facilities that is AS9100 Compliant, Aerospace, Defense, Nuclear, and Medically certified with customers like Ball AeroSpace, and is ITAR compliant.  If you can wait for us to do our next batch of jig blanks, we can do a custom blank, and include it with the batch for heat treating, and greatly reduce the added cost of the special blank.

Jig blanks are made from high quality tool steel and through hardened to 61-65HRC (hardness varies a little from blank to blank and batch to batch).  Avoid use of tools harder than ~55-58Rc as they can start to wear on the jig because they are so close in hardness.  We suggest the use of Nicholson files as they have proven to be very consistent over the years.

If you have the need for a second jig of a design we have previously made, or from a tone board profile we have previously mapped (such as from milling tone boards for you), the cost of a standard jig is reduced to $235.00 unless your original jig had additional costs associated with it.  

Turn around time varies based on backlog and work load.  We quote turnaround at 4-8 weeks, but typically its closer to 1-2 weeks - but we quote at 4-8 weeks to cover our rearend and avoid disappointing you!  Usually it is faster than 4-8 weeks, sometimes even much faster (as fast as a day or two) - but we officially quote turn around times on ALL CUSTOM DUCK JIGS as 4-8 weeks.  We can not be any more specific on turn around time until we have the prototype and deposit in hand (and even at that, it will still be rough guess) until we are ready to start on your jig due to work load and backlog.  If you ask, we're going to tell you, "4-8 weeks - but probably faster."

Regular price for a Standard Custom Jig - using our standard pre-prepped blank - is $325.00 - but may vary depending on the details of your sound board design.

***In your initial email***,  include the answers to ALL the following questions:

If any questions (1-6) are irrelevant to your jig/situation - please list the answer as Not Applicable so that we know that you have read the question are saying it is irrelevant.  And please include a note about any other details that you feel may be pertinent to making your jig (shoulder locate, if you want a spacer for locating off the back of the jig, if you want the cork notch tapered or parallel, etc...  If there is anything that you do, that you feel makes your design different from everyone else (aside from the board profile), please mention it!

1.)  Length of your sound board from tip to back of cork notch. (this is to help verify pricing)

2.)  Desired jig blank bore diameter (if the standard blank with a bore of .624-.626" is not an acceptable size). (this is to help verify pricing) If you desire a non-standard jig bore - it will increase the cost and turn around time.  See below.

     -  The answers to questions 1 & 2 will allow us to verify pricing prior to you paying the deposit or paying in full as well as any major delay in turn around time (blanks are batch processed, and any change to bore size will require it to be run with the next batch of blanks - which typically happens only once a year).  The standard jig blanks are long enough to allow a toneboard length up to 2.000" from the back of the cork notch to the tip of the tone board, provided the back of the cork notch is located 0.200" from the back face of the jig.

3.)  If you have a preferred cork notch height, feature, or length - please let us know specifically what you require.  Or if you want us to just measure your current notch and average out the thickness to make a uniform cork notch.  (Side note: one of the most common cork notch heights for the standard 3/16 cork many vendors sell is .165" - which is the same as our public jigs have).  I you wish the cork notch to be tapered (we have seen an increase in this over the last few years) or anything other than the notch being parallel to the sound board surface under it - please say so!  Otherwise we will make the cork notch parallel to the sound board.  If we dont know about it, we cant do it. If not having us measure and average your cork notch, you need to specify the desired MEASUREMENT of the notch - Telling us you want a "standard notch" does not tell us what size you want, we do not know what your idea of "standard is" - this is why we require an actual dimension.  If you want your cork notch to be the same as one of our Public of Flat jigs, please let us know - (they are all .165" tall - but some are longer than others) so if you want a length alteration as well, please notate the length of cork notch desired and that it is an alteration from what ever ends up being measured, otherwise we will default to matching your existing cork length.   If you dont know or dont care, just tell us to measure your notch and average it. 

PLEASE BE DESCRIPTIVE!!!  Using words like "standard", "uniform", "about", "a little bit", "like a normal jig", etc do not help at all - our machines do not have a "little bit" button on the keypad :-D.  Use specific dimensions in decimal form and use words or phrases like:  Parallel to the tone board, upsloped, tapered up, tapered down, parallel to the centerline axis, add .xxx" amount, etc...   Everything about a jig is bringing it to dimensions...  So anything and everything will need to be described in a measurement.   For those that are not aware, to get to a decimal number from a fraction, one just needs to divide the top number by the bottom number.  ex:  5/8" = 5 ÷ 8 = 0.625"

4.)  Do you want to locate off of the back of the jig?  (for example with a shoulder style keg), please let us know  that is your intention, and if you want A.) Us to make a spacer for you (specify making it out of Steel +$25.00 or Acrylic +$15.00).  B.) You will make your own spacer and just want us to supply the dimension.  C.)  Want us to make the pedestal thicker and not use a spacer (we do not recommend this as the set screw usually ends up on the o-ring groove).    The absolute minimum distance for the pedestal is .200" but may be made longer at your request).  Please note:  If you do want to use a spacer - our current recommendation is to have your jig made with the standard pedestal (area between the back face of the jig and the back of the cork notch) which is .200" - and then to space the keg properly in relation to the shoulder of your insert, use a spacer/bushing of the appropriate thickness to add the necessary distance.  This does two things that are quite helpful:  1.) It keeps the set screw off of the oring groove - which is a common issue with making the pedestal thicker, and 2.) It gives you room to adjust the depth the keg sits at.  Since it is no easy task to remove material from the jig, nor is it cheap to make a new jig, using the spacer allows you to make new spacers, or buy shims washers to make youradjustments rather than having to alter the actual jig.  We strongly recommend this method if you use the back of the jig to locate your keg in the jig.  To measure this, you would measure the distance from the back of the cork notch to the face of the shoulder that would stop against the barrel or jig when assembled - and then subtract the thickness of the pedestal of the jig (typically .200" ±.001") - that will yeild the required thickness of the spacer/shim.  We DO NOT recommend using the taper of your insert if you have a taper locking style insert, where it stops in the barrel/jig as a locating method in the jig.  There are way too many problems that may arise from do this - especially if you are hand turning.  We will do everything we can to talk you out of doing that.

Using a spacer for locating has some issues with it if certain things are not consistent and accurate.   The two BIGGEST contributors to having a spacer work well are:  A.) You use a drill with a drill stop or other method that drills the tone channel exactly the same depth in relation to the end face of the keg - every time, and, B.) the length of your keg, from the end face to the face of the shoulder is always the exact same every time.   An variation in either the tone channel or keg body length will result in the spacer being incorrect and the tip of the tone channel will be in the wrong spot.

5.)  How you want your toneboard located on the jig blank - Option 1 or Option 2 (please see the description below "How do you want us to locate the sound board on your jig")

How  do you want us to locate the sound board on your jig?

Option 1: Locate based off of the centerline of the keg - this usually works best for those who do not maintain consistent tenon diameters.  This usually ends up with a deck height that is higher than the prototpye unless the tenon is right on 0.625" and cylicndrical.  Using this method in essence corrects for the difference in diameter between the tenon and the jig bore from the prototype to the jig.  Choosing Option 1 essentially results in a higher deck height so that if your tenon diameters vary, you wont end up with too shallow of a tone channel.  This is the default choice if you do not specify otherwise, or do not have a preference.  If you dont know why you would want option 2, then likely Option 1 is what will best suit you.

Option 2: Locate based off of the bottom of the tenon (ie bottom of the jig bore where the keg would sit) - this usually works best for those who have very consistant tenon diameters and desire a specific deck height.  This does not account for the difference between the tenon diameter and the jig bore.  This is generally the option chosen by those making large quantities of parts and/or with consistant tenon diameters that are are within .002" of the jig bore.  Our most particular call makers choose this option, not because they are particular, but becase they are good enough that they can be accurate and repeatable with their tenon diameters (and being straight cylinder) within a couple thousandths even when working by hand.  Customers using CNC or metal lathe turned tenons or blanks may find this a helpful option, provided their machinist is accurate and repeatable.  This is an alternate option, and must be specified when ordering your jig.

All in all - if you are still not sure how you want the profile located on the jig blank after reading the above info - our suggestion is OPTION 1

6.)  Do you intend on using the jig for adding grooves in the toneboard (commonly called 'spit grooves') using a mill or drill press?  Jig blanks have some variance side to side with regard to the jig bore.  The main focus when prepping the blanks is to keep the bore parallel to the bottom surface and to mitigate costs, less attention is given to the side to side location.   If you are relying on the jig bore being centered for later operations using the jig, please let us know this so that we can use a blank that has the bore centered more accurately.

>>> PLEASE BE SURE TO INCLUDE THIS INFORMATION IN YOUR EMAIL.  It is the "meat and potatoes" of the whole shebang.  :D

***NEW Option***   An alternate option to dealing with the above 5 questions.

The new option is called, "Do your thing".   If you dont know the answer to the questions above or none of them matter to you, you can opt to tell me to "do you thing".  I will make your jig, as if I were making it for me - and do my absolute best based on my experience, preferences, most common chosen options.  I might have one or two simple questions, but genearlly, Ill just "do my thing".  This carries one warning....   What you get is what you get.  There won't be a "do-over" if you don't like it.   Sure, if I completely miss the mark (when comparing the prototype to the jig), Ill remake it, but that comparison is done here before it ever ships out.

If you want me to "Do my thing", select the deposit option above, and at check-out put, "Do your thing on the jig" in the comments.  That will tell me youre sending it, no email with the above questions, and that I need to check it out, confirm pricing with you, and then get it going.

Blank Bore size options - Alternate Blank Bore Options MAY be available in stock - but we stock very few of any option and it may be a long waiting period until we might have more - Contact us if you have a specific request for your jig blank and we can let you know what the scoop is on that specific size

Here are the most frequent sizes we have seen over the years... and may have something on hand or options to achieve what you are after.

Please - Please - Oh Please.... contact us first before choosing and paying for an alternate jig bore option above...  We want to be sure we have what youre after of that you have all of the options and details.

Once the details have been worked out and pricing verified, you will need to send your prototype keg (along with deposit if paying by check) to us at:  

WEBFoot Custom Calls, 14982 County Road 6, Wiggins, CO 80654

Turn around time on a custom jig is currently quoted at 4-6 weeks - usually faster.  If you email and ask turn around times, this is what we'll tell you... :D

Custom Arkansas Style Duck Jig - for sound boards that are 5/8" tenon diameter (jig blank bore of .6245-.626") and 2.100" or shorter  (back of cork notch to tip of sound board - using a standard 0.200" pedestal).  Sound boards that have a bore requirement other than .6245-.626" AND/OR longer than 2.100" may have additional cost and potentially a notable delay in turn-around time.

The distance from the back of the cork notch to the back of the jig will be 0.200" unless otherwise noted (question #4 above - this we have termed the "Pedestal"), so be sure that you have enough tenon as to not stop the keg short of fitting all the way in the jig.  The set screw will be centered directly over the back of the cork notch (half over the cork, half behind the cork).

There is no physical damage done to the prototype during the mapping process and is returned to you with the finished jig.

***Please contact us via email before you can order a Custom Jig on the Online Store.  That way if there are any surprises, we can let you know in advance.***

Shipping and insurance is INCLUDED in the above price and quoted prices.  Be aware toneboards that are longer than the "average" (appx 1.950" or longer sound board from the back of the cork notch to the tip of the board AND/OR a tenon diameter other than 5/8") may have an additional charge for longer cutting time,  a longer blank and also subject to increased turn-around times.

Be sure to insure the package in case of loss by the shipper, as WEBFoot Custom Calls is not liable for any items lost by the shipping company. 

This service includes measuring, mapping, digitizing, converting to CAD/CAM format, and cutting the jig to match the prototype keg/insert that is sent in. PLEASE be sure to have as level and even (symmetrical and parallel) tone board as possible.  We take multiple measurements on each side of the tone channel, and then calculate from them for the path in the CAD file. Any variation from side to side will create inconsistencies in the end product. This is the best we can do with any tone board that is not symmetrical from side to side. If you have a side you would prefer the mapping be done from one side only and the "statistical" process not be done, you must notify us prior to the jig CAD file being made. The more precise your sample, the better the jig... 

Don't trust the jig making process to just anyone, we've been making calls for 30+ years and selling custom jigs since 2003 and have many happy customers (just ask about us on the forums).   We ALWAYS harden the blank first, and THEN cut it on an EDM to make a ONE piece jig.  This is very important when evaluating a custom jig.  Jigs that are milled rather than cut with an EDM seldom have uniform cork notches because of the way the cork notch must be cut in the second piece of the jig before its bolted on to the sound board portion.  Its very difficult to make the top of the cork notch parallel with the sound board using a mill because of the way it has to be cut on the machine.  The EDM does not have this limitation in addition to being able to make the jig in one piece.  Also, be cautious of jigs that are first cut from green steel (annealed or unhardened), THEN the steel is hardened after the profile is cut.  When material is heat treated it will "move".  It can grow, shrink, warp, crack, and twist, and it usually wont do it uniformly or predictably.  This is why we harden the blank before we cut the sound board onto it.  We have have remade jigs for many people who have had a friend, machinist, or local guy try and make a jig for them.  Sometimes, saving money, really isn't.

If the other "jig makers" out there arent asking these questions or providing this much information - do they really know what they are doing?  Do they use Tool Steel like WEBFoot does?  Is it hardened to 62HRc or better?  Is it through hardened?  or just case hardened low carbon steel?  What are the tolerances?  +/-.005 is HUGE when dealing with a sound board - let alone .010" or more.  We aim for +/-.001" or less from the jig to the cad file.

Turn around time on a custom jig is currently estimated at 4-6 weeks - but usually faster.

Remember, do not sand, grind, or use carbide tools on the jig unless you are purposefully trying to alter the shape.  Our Jigs are designed to withstand normal steel cutting tools with a Rockwell hardness of 60Rc or less - less being better for the jig (typical Nicholson files are approximately 55Rc) but the jigs can NOT stand up to carbide, diamond, grinding or abbrasives (like sand paper).   Our jigs are through hardened A2 tool steel and are 61-65HRc hardness (A2 at Maximum hardness ranges between 61 and 65 HRc).  We suggest avoiding tools made of material that is harder than 55Rc.  Some import files have been found to be harder than the industry standard of 55-58Rc - use at your own risk.  Some HSS or Cobalt tools (such as RotoZip bits etc) can possibly be harder than 60Rc and may prematurely wear on your jig.  We suggest you test any tool you use on the bottom or corner of the jig to be sure its not removing jig material prior to use on the toneboard portion of your jig.

Do not use a hammer on any hardened part or tool as it may fracture and cause injury.

***NOTICE***

WE WILL NOT copy someone else's toneboard, design, reed shape, etc...  for anyone other than the originator of that toneboard.  DO NOT send someone else's tone board for us to copy for you.  If you do, and it is discovered, you will be charged for any work performed up to the point that the infringement is discovered and you WILL NOT receive the jig.  A refund for the remaining balance and the prototype will be returned less shipping charges.  If you have altered a molded insert to your own design, it must be noteably altered by visual inspection and you must supply an unaltered version to map and compare against for verifcation.  Minor alterations to the very tip, or a "light pass" with a file on the sound board does not constitute "altered".  We are VERY strict about this policy, and will err on the side of caution rather than accidentally make an unauthorized copy.

"Cut downs" are a completely different breed of disaster - the tenon of the tone board is the base line... the most critical area of the mapping process.   Making a "cut down" jig will be expensive, and it will be "at YOUR OWN RISK" due to the lack of consisitent and accurate features.   In making custom jigs since 2003, we have yet to have one come in that we were willing to make (due to lack of alteration) or that the custoemr was willing to take the risk on a less than predictiable outcome.   The phrase, "It won't be good, or, it wont be cheap" comes to mind - and we try and stay in the realm of "its gonna be good".

Remember, do not sand, grind, or use carbide tools on the jig unless you are purposefully trying to alter the shape.  Jigs are designed to withstand normal steel cutting tools such as files and saws.  Do not use a hammer on any hardened part or tool as it may fracture and cause injury.

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